The next generation makes its mark, as
Stefan and Franz Hemmerle take over.
Stefan has trained as a goldsmith in
Munich, before working with jewellers in
France, Italy and Denmark, nurturing new
ideas and his individual style. At a time of
social and cultural change, with a new
approach to luxury and fine jewellery,
Stefan, immersed in Hemmerle’s rich and
noble heritage, understands jewellery
conventions, craftsmanship and traditions
well enough to begin to change them.
Stefan Hemmerle and his wife Sylveli, decide the
time is right to break with the past and transform
the jewel into a true contemporary work of art.
While honouring family heritage, respecting
jewellery traditions and revering age-old
craftsmanship, Stefan and Sylveli, take sole control
of the business and conjure an avant-garde aesthetic
of powerfully audacious modernity, layered with
cultural references, to art, architecture and
artisanship. The creative concept generated by this
philosophy is sparked by a commission from a
client, an art collector who ‘detested flashy gems.’
She wears examples of early 19th century Berlin iron
jewellery: neo-classical, architectural cast iron
ornaments worn by patriotic Germans in place of
gold, which they donated to the War effort during
the War of Liberation, 1813-15. With this in mind,
Stefan Hemmerle decides to set an important
diamond in a ring of textured iron.
It’s not every client request that
inspires a designer to branch off
into a direction he never before
imagined and subsequently
to develop an entirely new style
in doing so.
Barrier-breaking design introduces a whole new aesthetic for
Hemmerle, blazing a trail of design-driven, agelessly modernist art
jewels balancing powerful simplicity and splendour. Signatures now
include daring combinations of colours and textures and the use of
the rarest, most intriguing precious stones, set in unexpected
materials, such as iron and wood. Totally new to the world of fine
jewellery, and perfectly pitched in the minimalist mood of the 90s,
the concept heralds a new era for Hemmerle.
It was not my intention to shock,
though I did want to inspire.
Christian and Yasmin Hemmerle, Stefan and Sylveli’s son and daughter-in-law join Hemmerle. By now, Hemmerle’s distinctive design ethos has become the ultimate understatement of sophisticated preciousness. The continual search for the most intriguing gemstones, both old and new, is crucial and the globe is scoured treasure hunting for materials. A visual vocabulary continues to evolve: geometric silhouettes of rectangular cut gems or oval cabochons, mismatched earrings, wide curved armour-like cuffs, heavy curb chains, luxuriant tassels earrings.
One minute, they might set a large,
cut aquamarine of an Aryam blue
into an iron bangle of fierce
single-mindedness, the next twist
hundreds of tiny, polished carnelian
beads into a bejewelled rope.