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Hemmerle is a fourth generation family run house at the vanguard of jewellery design. Each jewel conceived is unique and as original as a work of art. Today, Stefan and Sylveli Hemmerle run the business with their son, Christian, and daughter-in-law, Yasmin. Hemmerle remains renowned for its dedication to craftsmanship, exceptional quality, innovative material combinations, and bold, unostentatious creations.

1893

MEDALS AND ORDERS

In Munich, brothers Joseph and Anton Hemmerle take over an established goldsmiths’ company specialising in medals and orders, whose clients include the Bavarian Royal family. The brothers bring their own style and ideas to the business, renamed Hemmerle, exploring materials and refining craftsmanship.

A Selection of medals made by Hemmerle

A series of medals made by Hemmerle

A Selection of medals made by Hemmerle

1895

PURVEYOR TO THE COURT

Hemmerle is appointed 'Purveyor to the Court' by Luitpold, Prince Regent of Bavaria. They become renowned for the 'bejewelled fantasies' they create for Ludwig III of Bavaria, the Bavarian government and the great families of the German nobility.

A Hemmerle design for a pendant

1900

PARIS EXPOSITION UNIVERSELLE

The Paris Exposition Universelle marks the high point of Art Nouveau, or Jugendstil as the style is known in Germany. Hemmerle, fast gaining a reputation and gathering awards, participate at the Exposition, and win a coveted prize for the Bishop’s Cross in enamel and gemstones that highlights their display.

A bishop cross designed by Hemmerle

A bishop cross designed by Hemmerle – back and front side

A bishop cross designed by Hemmerle

1904

MAXIMILIANSTRASSE

Hemmerle opens a boutique on Maximilianstrasse, Munich’s imposing and fashionable shopping boulevard. The boutique broadens its scope to include silver, military ornaments and antique jewellery. Hemmerle remains at the same premises today.

The first interior design of the Hemmerle shop

Bavarian Maximilians Medal designed by Hemmerle back

Bavarian Maximilian Order for Art and Science back and front side

1905

MAXIMILIANSORDEN

Hemmerle began making the Bavarian Maximiliansorden which they still make to this day. First established by King Maximilian II of Bavaria, they are awarded to acknowledge outstanding achievements in science and art. The order is restricted to 100 living members at any one time.

1921

JOSEPH JR UND CARL HEMMERLE

Joseph and Anton’s sons, Joseph Jr. and Carl Hemmerle join the firm after World War I.

1937

CARL HEMMERLE

Carl Hemmerle now takes control of the business.

Portrait of Carl Hemmerle

1968

RENOVATION

The boutique on Maximilianstrasse renovated

The boutique on Maximilianstrasse is renovated by Carl Hemmerle and his wife Lore.

1970

NEXT GENERATION

The next generation makes its mark, as Stefan and Franz Hemmerle take over. Stefan has trained as a goldsmith in Munich, before working with jewellers in France, Italy and Denmark, nurturing new ideas and his individual style. At a time of social and cultural change, with a new approach to luxury and fine jewellery, Stefan, immersed in Hemmerle’s rich and noble heritage, understands jewellery conventions, craftsmanship and traditions well enough to begin to change them.

Portrait of Stefan Hemmerle

Stefan Hemmerle

1993

100TH ANNIVERSARY

To mark the 100th Anniversary, Stefan creates a strikingBavarian Lion composed of yellow gold and over 2,000 brown, green, orange and canary-yellow diamonds with yellow-brown sapphires forming the lion’s back. The setting of the diamonds, mixed with their natural colour, makes for a subtle and scintillating texturebrought to life by the design. A party is hosted in Berlin to show the brooch and celebrate the anniversary.

Lion sculpture of the Wittelbacher dynasty

diamond – sapphires – yellow gold

1995

A TRUE CONTEMPORARY
WORK OF ART

Stefan Hemmerle and his wife Sylveli, decide the time is right to break with the past and transform the jewel into a true contemporary work of art. While honouring family heritage, respecting jewellery traditions and revering age-old craftsmanship, Stefan and Sylveli, take sole control of the business and conjure an avant-garde aesthetic of powerfully audacious modernity, layered with cultural references, to art, architecture and artisanship. The creative concept generated by this philosophy is sparked by a commission from a client, an art collector who ‘detested flashy gems.’ She wears examples of early 19th century Berlin iron jewellery: neo-classical, architectural cast iron ornaments worn by patriotic Germans in place of gold, which they donated to the War effort during the War of Liberation, 1813-15. With this in mind, Stefan Hemmerle decides to set an important diamond in a ring of textured iron.

Hemmerle ring designed with diamond set in iron

It’s not every client request that inspires a designer to branch off into a direction he never before imagined and subsequently to develop an entirely new style in doing so.

Alison Burwell Wmagazine

1995

TEFAF AND PALM BEACH

Hemmerle participate in Tefaf Basel, an art and antiques fair held at the Messe Basel that ran for 4 years. Hemmerle show work at Palm Beach, a jewellery, art and antiques fair in Florida. They continue to exhibit at the fair for 5 years.

Hemmerle stand at TEFAF Basel

Hemmerle stand at TEFAF Basel

1996

NEW AESTHETIC

Barrier-breaking design introduces a whole new aesthetic for Hemmerle, blazing a trail of design-driven, agelessly modernist art jewels balancing powerful simplicity and splendour. Signatures now include daring combinations of colours and textures and the use of the rarest, most intriguing precious stones, set in unexpected materials, such as iron and wood. Totally new to the world of fine jewellery, and perfectly pitched in the minimalist mood of the 90s, the concept heralds a new era for Hemmerle.

Popular Hemmerle harmony bangle

Aqua Bangle
diamond – rosegold – iron

It was not my intention to shock, though I did want to inspire.

Stefan Hemmerle

1996

NEAR-EXTINCT TECHNIQUE

Hemmerle revives an early 19th century, near-extinct Austrian technique of woven, knitted, precious gem beads. Each bead is hand-hewn and carved, hand-drilled, impeccably matched for colour, and often carefully calibrated and graduated to achieve a silky gem-mesh knitted in the round, on silk, for bangles or long necklaces, often hung with a signature Hemmerle tassel. This labour-and time-intensive process reflects the pursuit of artisanal excellence.

Century-old German jewellery house Hemmerle is a staunch defender of the craftsman’s trade.

Jessica Diamond Wallpaper
Beaded earrings with rosequarz and sapphires

sapphires – rose quarz– white gold

Beaded earrings with amethysts and sapphires

sapphires – amethyst– white gold

Beaded earrings with garnets and sapphires

sapphires – garnets – white gold

1998

BOUTIQUE REDESIGN

As the unique Hemmerle aesthetic evolves and strengthens, the Maximilianstrasse boutique is redesigned by Sylveli Hemmerle alongside celebrated Dutch designer and architect, Tom Postma, renowned for his cultural projects, museums and exhibitions, including 2006 Art Basel Miami Beach Fair and the Jordan National Gallery.

Image of the inside shop Hemmerle
Image of the shop Hemmerle

1999

CULTURA

A new fair, Cultura, the World Art and Antiques Fair, is organised in Basel by a group of dealers including Stefan Hemmerle. Hemmerle participate in the fair which ran for five years.

1999

ATELIER EXPANSION

A town house in the heart of Munich is renovated as the atelier expands to house 15 dedicated goldsmiths. All jewellery is made onsite and nothing is outsourced. Every piece is hand-crafted and entirely bespoke. It is not unusual for 500 or more hours to be spent on the making of a single Hemmerle jewel.

Many images of the Hemmerle atelier
Many images of the Hemmerle atelier
Many images of the Hemmerle atelier

2000

ART OF NATURE

Art of Nature is published to celebrate a collection of one-of-a-kind jewels and objets d’art inspired by the natural world. The illustrated book showcases Hemmerle’s vibrant interpretations of animals, insects, birds and plants, made over some 18 years, from 1979-1996.

The kingdom of nature has been beautifully conquered by Hemmerle.

John Traina Author of "Extraordinary Jewels"

2001

PEARLS EXHIBITION

Hemmerle’s tarantula brooch, a pair of melo-pearl earrings and a melo-pearl brooch were featured in The Pearl Exhibition, a show of rare pearls and jewellery at the Museum of Islamic Art, Doha, Qatar, from January to June 2010.

Hemmerle's spider brooch with sapphires and conch pearl

conch-pearl – sapphires – diamonds – yellow gold

2004

MUSHROOMS

The characteristic Hemmerle element of subtle surprise emerged again in the form of charming, characterful brooches depicting different, lifelike species of mushrooms, exquisitely modelled and capturing earthy woodland tones and textures.

Hemmerle mushroom brooch with sapphires

sapphires – white gold – silver – copper

Every once in a while, a designer comes along who, fully aware of what has come before, turns a totally new page.

Janet Zapata Art Historian

2006

CHRISTIAN AND YASMIN HEMMERLE

Christian and Yasmin Hemmerle, Stefan and Sylveli’s son and daughter-in-law join Hemmerle. By now, Hemmerle’s distinctive design ethos has become the ultimate understatement of sophisticated preciousness. The continual search for the most intriguing gemstones, both old and new, is crucial and the globe is scoured treasure hunting for materials. A visual vocabulary continues to evolve: geometric silhouettes of rectangular cut gems or oval cabochons, mismatched earrings, wide curved armour-like cuffs, heavy curb chains, luxuriant tassels earrings.

The Hemmerle Couple Yasmin and Christian Hemmerle

One minute, they might set a large, cut aquamarine of an Aryam blue into an iron bangle of fierce single-mindedness, the next twist hundreds of tiny, polished carnelian beads into a bejewelled rope.

Isabel Lloyd Intelligent Life

2006

DIE NEUE SAMMLUNG

Die Neue Sammlung, the State Museum of Applied Arts and Design in Munich staged Myths: Jewels Today – Seen by Stefan Hemmerle, a three-month exhibition showcasing 145 Hemmerle jewels. A book is published to coincide with the exhibition.

An advertising column for a Hemmerle exhibition

a craftsmanship that exhibits utmost sophistication

Florian Hufnagl Erstwhile Director, Die Neue Sammlung

2007

RED DOT DESIGN AWARD

Architect Tom Postma receives the 2007 Red Dot Design Award for Best Exhibition, for his design of Myths: Jewels Today –Seen by Stefan Hemmerle: a black box filled with gently moving backlit water that shimmers like moonlight.

2008

THE NATURE OF DIAMONDS

Hemmerle’s gecko brooch was included in The Nature of Diamonds, a travelling exhibition from 2008 – 2010 organised by the American Museum of Natural History, New York, in collaboration with The Field Museum, Chicago, the Royal Ontario Museum, Toronto, and the Houston Museum of Natural Science.

diamonds – chrysoberyl cats eyes – white gold

2009

NEW YORKER HOTEL
PLAZA ATHÉNEÉ

Hemmerle’s design aesthetic has always enjoyed recognition beyond the borders of jewellery. Thus, Sylveli and Yasmin Hemmerle were invited to redesign a suite in New York’s Hôtel Plaza Athénée on the Upper East Side. Working in close collaboration with the Munich-based interior designer Michael Sattler, Sylveli and Yasmin created a suite that reflects the European elegance of the hotel and the bold simplicity of Hemmerle’s design language. The suite is now one of the most distinctive environments in the city to view jewellery in.

Yasmin and Sylveli Hemmerle redesigned a suite of 119 m² in New York – or rather the biggest jewellery box in town.

AD Architectural Digest, October 2013

2010

HARMONY BANGLE

Hemmerle is honoured when the Harmony Bangle is chosen to become part of the permanent collection of the William and Judith Bollinger Jewellery Gallery at London’s Victoria and Albert Museum.

Hemmerle's iconic harmony bangle

spinels – copper – white gold

Hemmerle have brought a distinctive and highly original voice to jewellery of the highest calibre.

Richard Edgcumbe – Curator, Victoria and Albert Museum

2010

THE PEARL EXHIBITION

Hemmerle’s tarantula brooch, a pair of melo-pearl earrings and a melo-pearl brooch were featured in The Pearl Exhibition, a show of rare pearls and jewellery at the Museum of Islamic Art, Doha, Qatar, from January to June 2010.

Melo Pearl earrings with garnets and rose gold

melo-pearls – garnets – pink gold – copper

2011

DELICIOUS JEWELS

Christian and Yasmin Hemmerle surprise Stefan with a vegetable-inspired collection of jewellery. To celebrate, Delicious Jewels is published, a book that introduces the jewels along with recipes by celebrated food writer and author Tamasin Day-Lewis.

Pea brooch in the garden

Hemmerle eggplant brooch

spinels – white gold – silver – copper

This collection is about seeing beauty where most people just see the ordinary details of daily life.

Christian Hemmerle
Snake bracelet with diamond and platin

diamonds – platinum

2011

SERPENTINA EXHIBITION

Hemmerle’s snake bracelets are included in Serpentina: The Snake in Jewellery Around the World, an exhibition at Pforzheim’s Jewellery Museum from November 2011 to February 2012.

2012

MASTERPIECE

Hemmerle participate for the first time at Masterpiece, London’s highly-acclaimed art and antiques fair, and launch Egyptian inspired jewellery at the fair.

There is something for every taste at the event.

Maria Doulton Financial Times

2012

TEFAF

Hemmerle participate for the 15th year at TEFAF Maastricht, the world’s most important art and antiques fair, as the fair celebrates its Silver Jubilee.

The world’s most admired art and antiques fair.

Gareth Harris The Art Newspaper

2013

PEARLS EXHIBITION

Three pairs of Hemmerle earrings created using melo-pearls and the Tarantula brooch are included in Pearls, an exhibition at London’s Victoria and Albert Museum from September 2013 – January 2014.

Hemmerle Exhibition Victoria and Albert Museum

2014

NATURE'S JEWELS

A nature-inspired collection of 16 pieces of jewellery is launched at TEFAF Maastricht in March. An accompanying book Nature’s Jewels pairs the jewels with poetry from around the world selected by Greta Bellamacina and published by MACK.

book cover

Eucalyptus
diamonds – bronze – brass – gold

Cork Oak
diamonds – sliver – copper – gold

Physalis
melo pearl – gold

Physalis
melo pearl – gold

Our own philosophy resonates with poetry - originality, beauty, boldness, creativity, and technical understanding also go into making a Hemmerle jewel.

Christian Hemmerle

2014

EGYPTIAN STORY BANGLE

An exquisitely curvaceous Harmony Bangle inspired by Egypt and crafted in exotic pock wood with turquoises and tsavorite garnets capping the ends joined the permanent collection of the Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum.

Harmony bangle made of wood with tsavorites and turquoise

tsavorites – turquoise – pock wood – silver – white gold

Hemmerle is refreshing both visually and philosophically – with timeless pieces held in institutions from New York’s Cooper Hewitt to London’s Victoria & Albert, they are sustaining the recognition they deserve.

Olivia Singer, Under the Influence

2016

BEAUTY

Beauty - Cooper Hewitt Design Triennial feiert Design und erweitert den Diskurs um die Kraft der ästhetischen Innovation. Die Ausstellung zeigt vom 12. Februar bis 21. August 2016 über 10 Schmuckstücke, die Hemmerles über Jahrzehnte entwickelte starke visuelle Identität demonstrieren. Präsentiert werden von der Natur inspirierte Unikate - eine Eukalyptusbrosche, Schnecken und Bienenohrringe, die mit einem Hauch von Realismus modelliert sind. Hemmerles Hingabe für Farbigkeit ist insbesondere bei den orange-pinkfarbenen Saphirohrringen, der Harmonie-Armspange aus pinkfarbenem Granat und dem Topazring in leuchtendem Orange deutlich zu spüren. Fundstücke wie Gemmen und gravierte Jade sind in zeitgenössischem Design gearbeitet und zeigen, dass Kreativität durchaus von Materialien befruchtet werden kann.

Hemmerle earrings with rubellite – tourmaline – sapphires – white gold

rubellite – tourmaline – sapphires – spinels – copper – white gold

2016

THE [AL] PROJECT

The [AL] Project explores the unique properties of aluminium through innovative design and exquisite craftsmanship. The collection consisting of 16 pairs of earrings and a brooch is launched at TEFAF Maastricht in March.

Hemmerle brooch a clematis flower made of aluminium

Aluminium’s natural qualities provided the perfect opportunity for us to experiment with the metal and celebrate its past splendour.

Christian Hemmerle
Hemmerle brooch from the AL collection

aluminium – bronze – gold demantoid garnets

Hemmerle earrings made of aluminium and diamonds

aluminium – silver – gold – diamonds

2016

TEFAF

Presented at TEFAF Maastricht this year is a new exhibition-stand featuring a sculptural structure designed by the Dutch architect Tom Postma in collaboration with Hemmerle. Uniting ambitious design with sophisticated engineering, the interlocking architectural structure combines bold form with surprising function. Composed from 16 individual screens made up of American walnut-wood rods, each individually crafted and connected to uniquely engineered aluminium rods, the multi-layered screens of the design appear to float and defy the rules of gravity.

Hemmerle booth at TEFAF art fair

It is the descerning eye of a sophisticated collector that will appreciate exceptional craftsmanship of Hemmerle whose jewels will definitley become the antiques of the future.

Joanna Hardy Author, Curator and Jewellery Advisor

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